For anyone who has purchased a system, I was wondering which cables and mounting blocks did you go for, and have you expanded your kit by purchasing any extras, I.e more cables, Gizmo 3D printed parts etc since?
Hi Martin,
Ive been using the Cine RT for over a year now and i have a few extras.
For the horns i use a Gizmo 3d printed protector for the antenna.
Also a mounting block on the back, to mount it on a minimotor with the lenztools bracket.
Using just 1 cable, the y-cable to my lcube.
For the HandUnit i use the cinelock mounting block on the back and a Gizmo antenna protector.
Ive added some photos!!
Thank you Rozemarijn. The lenztools bracket is really slick. Did you initially order excess power cables, and find yourself only using the Y cable?
I’ve rented for a few jobs now, and never use the high bright display, and only ever use a single power cable to the horns. I’m conscious that I might want to change habits in the future, so thinking of getting a full system regardless.
The Gizmo protectors seem to be a wise choice!
I just use the Y cable and never ordered or wanted to use otherwise. But thats also because i use the same setup for every job. The highbright is something i dont use because i use or the readout on the remote or when its a mini in the monitor, or the cinert handunit. Can always send me a chat if you want more info!
Me and my colleague bought a kit with this components:
- CineRT Package with Base Sensor ("Horns"), Handset, Highbright Display
- 2x Bugs
- LCube
- Y-Cable to Lcube
- P-Tap -> Lemo Power Cable
- extra LBUS cable
- Horn Protection Kit
- 1x Bottom Mounting Block (Highbright Display)
- 1x Cinelock Block (Handset)
- 1x 1/4" 20 Mounting Block (Horns)
As Rozemarijn already said, the Y-Cable is the way to go if you have an lcube. We got the extra power cable to charge the handset and highbright display, and to have the option to go without the lcube if needed, but I always used it with the lcube so far.
I like to have the highbright display directly on my hand unit and the handset somewhere on the magliner/c-stand/monitor, so the cinelock on the handset made sense, and the bottom mounting block makes mounting the display on a handunit easier.
I don't use a motor for the horns, so the standard 1/4" mounting block is all that's needed for the horns.
We also chose to get three different mounting blocks so we can change them around as we wish, because since we both use the system we wanted to have it flexible enough to fit any scenario either of us wants to use the system.
The only thing we ordered extra after getting the system is a double USB-charger with extra mini-USB cables so we can charge both bugs at once, because that wasn't in the kit.
Thanks for your reply. It sounds like you bought quite a comprehensive kit. I think although i don't currently use the Lcube in my set up, i might actually switch to using this with a Y cable, with a back up Lemo power cable.
I don't think i've seen the bottom mounting block in use on the handset. At the moment i usually keep my handset on a quick release (onto standard 1/4 mounting block) which is attached to the bottom left to my 703 cage.
my thoughts are currently to order 3 x 3/8 mounting blocks, with the idea that i can always insert a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter to the thread. Best of both worlds?
@Martin Warrilow Depending on what LCS you have, the lcube can definitely be a good addition to the system! Its really nice to have the rangefinder data inside the hand unit as well, that opens up a lot of possibilities.
3/8 to 1/4 adapters sure work, the bottom mounting block just has an additional thread at an 90° angle, which is nice to have for some setups...
I’d say the bottom mounting block is probably the most versatile for the horns, if you want the ability to rig in various ways.
I personally don’t think those 3D printed antenna protectors are necessary. The antennas are extremely stable, the kind of impact needed to break them would probably smash the whole unit, 3D protectors or not.
I agree on the y-cables but depending on whether you work with a lot of different camera systems and focus remotes, it’s obviously good to have some alternatives for power etc.
The hand unit also does not have the greatest battery life. So I got a dtap to 2pin RA permanently on my monitor setup with the hand unit.
Thanks Daniel. Again, I've not seen the bottom mounting block. I was planning on using the standard mounting block, and hopefully see someone like Ultralight develop a ball to CineRT mounting block section to incorporate into an existing ball arm set up.
Good to know your opinion on the antenna protectors!
I do exactly the same with my rental CineRT's hand unit, permanently hard wiring via D-tap.
The bottom mounting block essentially gives you three mounting points. A 1/4” on the flat facing side, a 1/4” on one of the bottom sides, and a 3/8” on the other side.
I’ve attached some pics. I either use a small noga, but for example for steadicam I like to use a 15mm bridge support.
@Daniel Foeldes excellent. Thanks for the examples. I guess it's a little thicker, but provides a greater amount of flexibility. The 15mm bridge support is a nice idea too!
Hi all, when purchasing my system I went for almost any kind of cable (RS, d-tap, serial etc) to be prepared no matter what the set up would be. After a couple of years, if you want my two cents, 90% of time I use the Y cable with the lCube (which in my opinion is a MUST). So if I could go back in time I would invest in another Y cable, than for instance in an RS. Nevertheless I do think that the d-tap cable is very useful, since it allows you not only to power the base sensor, but also the highbright display and the HU. Another crucial elements are the antenna protectors, I got those by moodji films and they work great. Last but not least, the grid to avoid dust or powder entering the base sensor is also a Must. Hope it helped!
Thanks Fabio, this is the advice i'm after. I'm also one of those people who normally buys way too much in order to not get caught out. However, it starts to add up quite quickly. It's a good shout going for the Y cable. Did you order standard length by the way, 24"? Would the other Y cable be a spare lcube, or would you opt for Preston? I've also got my eye on the dust protection cover.
Thanks again!
Hi all,
I’ve had mine since April 2018 now, still working smoothly, using it almost exclusively with a WCU-4 and Lcube.
As many of you, my necessary additions were:
- Y-cable Lcube 12” (and a spare I haven’t used so far, 24”)
- Y-cable Alexa Plus 24” (rarely use it)
- horn protector (grid in front, saved me from quite a few worries, love it)
- two bugs (but I only really need one)
- antennae protector for all (thought I wouldn’t need them until an eager DP broke the one on the horns by readjusting the monitor arm in the heat of the moment)
- a couple of spare antennae
- high-bright display was part of the standard kit then (I use it on Russian Arm or when shooting on film)
- my sensor pan bracket:
https://lenzcameratools.shop/en/distance-measurement-acc/232-sensor-pan-bracket-for-cforce-mini.html ;)
- Noga Arm Mini when I don’t use my sensor pan bracket, along with a simple ¼” block, never really needed more
- Lemo 2p RA to charge the handset on my home office/focus stand
I think perhaps i'll start with the Y-cable Lcube, and then add extra Y-cables to suit different systems as i go. They should be available from Panavision London so no need to buy lots to start with.
Horn protector seems a no brainer.
Good to know your thoughts re: antennae protector!
Hey Martin! Glad to help. Yep, I went for the standard length Y cable, but there is kinda up to you: personally I don’t like to put the horns on the mattebox too far from the focal plane, so 24” are more than enough for any camera I’ve been using so far, but if you like to put the horns on top of the MB to avoid parallax and you often go with long zooms you may want a longer cable. I have a CMotion, so lcube is my only option. Stay sharp!
Hey Martin, and happy new year!
When I got my cineRT kit I opted for the kit without the high bright display, it shaved of quite a bit of the total price then. But after using the system for a while now I do see myself having use for it. Another option here is cmotion cdistance display, that’s not wireless tho, but LBUS powered.
Mounting I have the standard 1/4 on the horns and the cinecradle on the hand unit. This combined with a cinelock quick release(I have the kondor blue ones) makes it super quick to snap of and go measure what I need to measure. I also have the sensor pan bracket for the horns which is really nice.
Power wise I use the y-cable serial to the lcube, got an extra cable of this as backup. Dtap-2pin Lemo to power the hand unit(it’s always powered this way from my monitor) and micro usb for the bug.
Horn protectors are a must have, this has saved me multiple times. Also antenna protectors is a must have for me, I have the ones from Gizmo. The quality on those are great, but be aware they don’t come with screws.
Hi Martin, thanks for your reply. Incidentally i was looking at going for the system without the high bright display, as on my last two long projects i haven't utilised it at all. That being said, it would be nice to have a complete package if it were to be rented out etc.
I think i'm leaning towards 3 x 3/8 mounting blocks and inserting a thread adapter (so it's basically 2 in one.) The Cinecradle is also a good idea for the hand unit. I also use it in the way you do with a Cinelock.
Thanks for your thoughts on the Gizmo and Horn protectors, good to know they don't come with the screws!!
Hi Martin,
Am pretty new to the system.
I’ve just completed my set up after much reading and research through sites like these.
I got both Y cables for the Alexa mini and SXT cameras. As I have the LCube, I got the Lbus to Lbus, 7pin to 6 pin. To power the base. Dtap to 2pin, Arri 12v to 2pin.
Got the gizmo mounts for the base, high bright and antenna protectors as well.
Recently got a friend to 3D print and holder for the bug to be mounted or worn by talent. (Still a work in progress)
Hi Martin, Ive been using the Cine RT for over a year now and i have a few extras. For the horns i use a Gizmo 3d printed protector for the antenna. Also a mounting block on the back, to mount it on a minimotor with the lenztools bracket. Using just 1 cable, the y-cable to my lcube. For the HandUnit i use the cinelock mounting block on the back and a Gizmo antenna protector. Ive added some photos!!
Thank you Rozemarijn. The lenztools bracket is really slick. Did you initially order excess power cables, and find yourself only using the Y cable? I’ve rented for a few jobs now, and never use the high bright display, and only ever use a single power cable to the horns. I’m conscious that I might want to change habits in the future, so thinking of getting a full system regardless. The Gizmo protectors seem to be a wise choice!
I just use the Y cable and never ordered or wanted to use otherwise. But thats also because i use the same setup for every job. The highbright is something i dont use because i use or the readout on the remote or when its a mini in the monitor, or the cinert handunit. Can always send me a chat if you want more info!
Hi!
Me and my colleague bought a kit with this components:
- CineRT Package with Base Sensor ("Horns"), Handset, Highbright Display
- 2x Bugs
- LCube
- Y-Cable to Lcube
- P-Tap -> Lemo Power Cable
- extra LBUS cable
- Horn Protection Kit
- 1x Bottom Mounting Block (Highbright Display)
- 1x Cinelock Block (Handset)
- 1x 1/4" 20 Mounting Block (Horns)
As Rozemarijn already said, the Y-Cable is the way to go if you have an lcube. We got the extra power cable to charge the handset and highbright display, and to have the option to go without the lcube if needed, but I always used it with the lcube so far.
I like to have the highbright display directly on my hand unit and the handset somewhere on the magliner/c-stand/monitor, so the cinelock on the handset made sense, and the bottom mounting block makes mounting the display on a handunit easier.
I don't use a motor for the horns, so the standard 1/4" mounting block is all that's needed for the horns.
We also chose to get three different mounting blocks so we can change them around as we wish, because since we both use the system we wanted to have it flexible enough to fit any scenario either of us wants to use the system.
The only thing we ordered extra after getting the system is a double USB-charger with extra mini-USB cables so we can charge both bugs at once, because that wasn't in the kit.
Thanks for your reply. It sounds like you bought quite a comprehensive kit. I think although i don't currently use the Lcube in my set up, i might actually switch to using this with a Y cable, with a back up Lemo power cable. I don't think i've seen the bottom mounting block in use on the handset. At the moment i usually keep my handset on a quick release (onto standard 1/4 mounting block) which is attached to the bottom left to my 703 cage. my thoughts are currently to order 3 x 3/8 mounting blocks, with the idea that i can always insert a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter to the thread. Best of both worlds?
@Martin Warrilow Depending on what LCS you have, the lcube can definitely be a good addition to the system! Its really nice to have the rangefinder data inside the hand unit as well, that opens up a lot of possibilities.
3/8 to 1/4 adapters sure work, the bottom mounting block just has an additional thread at an 90° angle, which is nice to have for some setups...
@Philipp Uhl Thanks. Gives me a better idea of how it could be used!
I’d say the bottom mounting block is probably the most versatile for the horns, if you want the ability to rig in various ways.
I personally don’t think those 3D printed antenna protectors are necessary. The antennas are extremely stable, the kind of impact needed to break them would probably smash the whole unit, 3D protectors or not.
I agree on the y-cables but depending on whether you work with a lot of different camera systems and focus remotes, it’s obviously good to have some alternatives for power etc.
The hand unit also does not have the greatest battery life. So I got a dtap to 2pin RA permanently on my monitor setup with the hand unit.
Thanks Daniel. Again, I've not seen the bottom mounting block. I was planning on using the standard mounting block, and hopefully see someone like Ultralight develop a ball to CineRT mounting block section to incorporate into an existing ball arm set up.
Good to know your opinion on the antenna protectors!
I do exactly the same with my rental CineRT's hand unit, permanently hard wiring via D-tap.
The bottom mounting block essentially gives you three mounting points. A 1/4” on the flat facing side, a 1/4” on one of the bottom sides, and a 3/8” on the other side.
I’ve attached some pics. I either use a small noga, but for example for steadicam I like to use a 15mm bridge support.
@Daniel Foeldes excellent. Thanks for the examples. I guess it's a little thicker, but provides a greater amount of flexibility. The 15mm bridge support is a nice idea too!
Hi all, when purchasing my system I went for almost any kind of cable (RS, d-tap, serial etc) to be prepared no matter what the set up would be. After a couple of years, if you want my two cents, 90% of time I use the Y cable with the lCube (which in my opinion is a MUST). So if I could go back in time I would invest in another Y cable, than for instance in an RS. Nevertheless I do think that the d-tap cable is very useful, since it allows you not only to power the base sensor, but also the highbright display and the HU. Another crucial elements are the antenna protectors, I got those by moodji films and they work great. Last but not least, the grid to avoid dust or powder entering the base sensor is also a Must. Hope it helped!
Thanks Fabio, this is the advice i'm after. I'm also one of those people who normally buys way too much in order to not get caught out. However, it starts to add up quite quickly. It's a good shout going for the Y cable. Did you order standard length by the way, 24"? Would the other Y cable be a spare lcube, or would you opt for Preston? I've also got my eye on the dust protection cover. Thanks again!
Hi all, I’ve had mine since April 2018 now, still working smoothly, using it almost exclusively with a WCU-4 and Lcube. As many of you, my necessary additions were: - Y-cable Lcube 12” (and a spare I haven’t used so far, 24”) - Y-cable Alexa Plus 24” (rarely use it) - horn protector (grid in front, saved me from quite a few worries, love it) - two bugs (but I only really need one) - antennae protector for all (thought I wouldn’t need them until an eager DP broke the one on the horns by readjusting the monitor arm in the heat of the moment) - a couple of spare antennae - high-bright display was part of the standard kit then (I use it on Russian Arm or when shooting on film) - my sensor pan bracket: https://lenzcameratools.shop/en/distance-measurement-acc/232-sensor-pan-bracket-for-cforce-mini.html ;) - Noga Arm Mini when I don’t use my sensor pan bracket, along with a simple ¼” block, never really needed more - Lemo 2p RA to charge the handset on my home office/focus stand
I think perhaps i'll start with the Y-cable Lcube, and then add extra Y-cables to suit different systems as i go. They should be available from Panavision London so no need to buy lots to start with.
Horn protector seems a no brainer.
Good to know your thoughts re: antennae protector!
Hey Martin! Glad to help. Yep, I went for the standard length Y cable, but there is kinda up to you: personally I don’t like to put the horns on the mattebox too far from the focal plane, so 24” are more than enough for any camera I’ve been using so far, but if you like to put the horns on top of the MB to avoid parallax and you often go with long zooms you may want a longer cable. I have a CMotion, so lcube is my only option. Stay sharp!
Hey Martin, and happy new year! When I got my cineRT kit I opted for the kit without the high bright display, it shaved of quite a bit of the total price then. But after using the system for a while now I do see myself having use for it. Another option here is cmotion cdistance display, that’s not wireless tho, but LBUS powered. Mounting I have the standard 1/4 on the horns and the cinecradle on the hand unit. This combined with a cinelock quick release(I have the kondor blue ones) makes it super quick to snap of and go measure what I need to measure. I also have the sensor pan bracket for the horns which is really nice. Power wise I use the y-cable serial to the lcube, got an extra cable of this as backup. Dtap-2pin Lemo to power the hand unit(it’s always powered this way from my monitor) and micro usb for the bug. Horn protectors are a must have, this has saved me multiple times. Also antenna protectors is a must have for me, I have the ones from Gizmo. The quality on those are great, but be aware they don’t come with screws.
Hi Martin, thanks for your reply. Incidentally i was looking at going for the system without the high bright display, as on my last two long projects i haven't utilised it at all. That being said, it would be nice to have a complete package if it were to be rented out etc.
I think i'm leaning towards 3 x 3/8 mounting blocks and inserting a thread adapter (so it's basically 2 in one.) The Cinecradle is also a good idea for the hand unit. I also use it in the way you do with a Cinelock.
Thanks for your thoughts on the Gizmo and Horn protectors, good to know they don't come with the screws!!
Hi Martin, Am pretty new to the system. I’ve just completed my set up after much reading and research through sites like these. I got both Y cables for the Alexa mini and SXT cameras. As I have the LCube, I got the Lbus to Lbus, 7pin to 6 pin. To power the base. Dtap to 2pin, Arri 12v to 2pin. Got the gizmo mounts for the base, high bright and antenna protectors as well. Recently got a friend to 3D print and holder for the bug to be mounted or worn by talent. (Still a work in progress)